Sunday, November 30, 2003
At Eastern Short Marina where we wait for stepping, engine repair parts and who knows what else.

Saturday, November 29, 2003
Boat projects, laundry, and replacement of microwave. It really took most of the day – nothing is ever simple on a boat, the available space is a different size than the available microwaves, the wiring too short. But the new one fits now, works much better and brightens up the corners because it is white not black. Denny does good work!!

A drive (with the courtesy car) to town and a walk back. As we meet people and tell them what we are about we have had so many different reactions – “I hate you!, I’m so jealous!, Aren’t you afraid?, Do you need a crew?, WHERE are you going?, Are you nuts?” – but all have been friendly and interested.

Friday, November 28, 2003 Our 28th Anniversary!

Gail and I walk the 3.5 miles to downtown Fairhope – shops, restaurants, people galore. The people and places remind us of Grosse Point and Bloomfield Hills. It’s really the first time since St. Joe that we’ve been in a town that we could go more than once.

Bill and Tiffany Devereux are here. They won’t head south until after January. Tiffany back to work in Chicago and Bill will complete boat projects, visits friends and family.

Dinner at Old Bay Steamers in Fairhope. Seafood for two – crab, shrimp, mussels, oysters, clams – it could have feed four. We brought home three crab for lunch the next day. We had our first seafood of the gulf.

Saturday, November 29, 2003
Boat projects, laundry, and replacement of microwave. It really took most of the day – nothing is ever simple on a boat, the available space is a different size than the available microwaves, the wiring too short. But the new one fits now, works much better and brightens up the corners because it is white not black. Denny does good work!!

A drive (with the courtesy car) to town and a walk back. As we meet people and tell them what we are about we have had so many different reactions – “I hate you!, I’m so jealous!, Aren’t you afraid?, Do you need a crew?, WHERE are you going?, Are you nuts?” – but all have been friendly and interested.

Thursday, November 27,2003 Thanksgiving

A warm (65°) fogless morning. Expecting winds, possibly some rain – we’ll see. We are usually up north at Albany Creek (Detour) with Mars. Have been for the last 13 years. It is strange to be here on the boat on turkey day. As we enter the last 40 iles of our trip down the river system we reflect. We have traveled on six rivers - Illinois, Mississippi, Ohio, Cumberland, Tennessee and the Tenn-Tom - 1285 miles, 24 locks, down lifted 198’ (IL & MS), up lifted 136’ (OH, Cum, TN) and down lifted 415’ (T-T) as a powerboat, and as a sailboat sailed 250 miles of Lake Michigan all over a span of 75 days- 38 of which were on the water. A total of 1535 miles.
We have had 11 visits from friends, visited seven different states, experienced nine storms, had temperature ranges of 29° to 85°, driven 2600 miles by car from Missouri to Michigan to NY and back and met numerous people and had a multitude of experiences. Our necklaces are growing.

And the rain came – it down poured, visibility zero. On goes the radar – at least we can tell if anything is coming our way. Thunder, lightning, dark skies – this is our welcome to Mobile. The rain comes and goes as squalls pass by, we decide to keep going skipping possible anchorages knowing we could be stranded here for days. The weather prediction isn’t favorable.

A short 4’ bridge ahead – hadn’t really realized it was so low – Denny had just taken the wheel after checking engine, belts, diesel leak, etc. Yikes! I could just see me barreling on through ripping the top of boat, radar, bimini and who knows what off the boat. It is a rather spine chilling thought!! Mobile bridge came into view – We made it!!!!

Mobile Harbor is truly where ocean meets river – more freighters than we’ve seen since Lake Michigan sitting near tows with their barges and in amongst them pleasure crafts like us – ants among wild boar and elephants all sharing the same waterway.
Fairhope, AL is our destination. It sits on the eastern shore of Mobile Bay about 20 miles north of the Gulf of Mexico. We set course leaving the shipping channel at marker #72, one mile @ 90° then 6.5 miles at 125° to Eastern Shore Marine where our mast and sails await. The skies cleared to the east, the direction we head, but coming from the west is a horrendous storm front with all the trimmings. The concern is on Mobile Bay – a 35K wind from the north creates chop like Lake Michigan in a northern gale but the shallowness of the bay (8 feet) could have us hitting bottom in every trough (the down part of the wave). We head for the marina, the storm right on our stern making bets as to whether we’ll get there before it or not. Our navigation is dead on, we arrive, just before dark and the storm. The harbor is shallow, tide is out so we gently glide into our slip as the winged keel rests in the mud. Aislinn moves to fuel dock where there is more water and less exposure to the Bay.
It’s Thanksgiving we had pizza and celebrated our arrival to saltwater with the bottle of champagne from Bader’s that we were to pop when we reached salt water. A bottle of wine charm was added to the necklace. And in honor of Thanksgiving we had pecan/pumpkin pie with the pecans we had gathered in Demopolis.

And the rains came again. It was like Noah and the arc. It rained all night and into the early morning. About 3:30 am the winds pick up – gale force at 35K+ and howled creating surge, waves, banging halyards (not ours), lines and canvass throughout the night – sounds of a harbor in the wind.

From here on we’ll be sailboats – can’t wait to get the mast stepped – hopefully early next week. The marina is closed until Monday. There are many boaters/cruisers waiting!

Friday, November 28, 2003 Our 28th Anniversary!

Wednesday, November 26, 2003

Another early departure and miles to go before we sleep, eighty to be exact. The days keep getting longer or at least we cover more miles. We’re hoping to make mile marker (MM) 64 today a place called Three Rivers Lake. Another cold (37) and foggy morning. The fog doesn’t seem too bad we head out about 6:00 am. We know another boat went down river about 5:45 am so we know he is out there. Visibility is shakey - zero at times, security calls from other boats blast out on the VHF, radar is up and running but we keep it slower than normal. By 8:00 am the fog has lifted and it is a bright sunny day.

Bobby’s Fish Camp is a stop on the river for fuel and limited supplies. We contact Coffeeville lock to check status, realize we have time to fuel up so make a quick stop. Dogs all around , no people around, trailers and shacks, rusted out vehicles, other than two power walkers, Denny hails “Bobby” a couple of times on VHF and is told “yell when you’re ready to pump I’ll turn on the hose.” The guys check out the limited supplies – dinty moore stew, candy bars, pop, a few cans of this and that – I would hate to rely on provisions of any type from here. It is the last place and only place south of Demopolis to get fuel and 120 miles to go to Mobile.

We hurry to Coffeeville Lock, about two miles down river to find it open and waiting. Three powerboats are tied up and waiting – one for three hours, two for 1.5 hours. In the 24 locks we have locked through our longest wait was 1.75 hours at Barkley Lock (Kentucky Lakes). We’re amazed, we had heard horror stories of long waits at locks but it just hasn’t been so. Typically we have to wait about 15 minutes if that. We are finished with locks until we come home.

The “Dirty Dozen” of the Tenn-Tom are behind us. All 12 the same kind of lock, 600 feet long, 110 feet wide with lifts from 25’ to 84’. It hasn’t been bad, we’ve gotten the hang of it by now and were “purdy” comfortable “locking through.”

Eastern Shore Marina called saying they are closed tomorrow and that Rebel Yell will have slip assignments and marina map for us. Denny ordered parts for the engine through Ed.
Clare and Khamsin aground in the channel. Hopefully with water rises with tides they will float off. We are now in water that has tidal effect. It is a first for us other than chartering. The tow captain on “City of Greenwood” explained that due to high water because of rain the tidal effect is limited at this time. We’ll notice current changes but no real depth change. Just another thing to think about.

The river has a wild look to it: trees and logs float along side us, silting and shifting sand constantly change the water depth and path, trees and shrubs at waters edge, wild boar and deer wander the shoreline getting drinks. We keep hoping to see a “gator” but no such luck. Tarpaper shacks appear out of nowhere – some inhabited some precariously balance on the river bank. I cautiously take a couple pictures – don’t want to make anyone angry.

Eighty-one miles, 10 hours and 45 minutes and we arrive at Three Rivers Lake to find trees in the entrance. We edge the bow in as far as possible avoiding any protruding debris and anchor in about 28 feet of water, set a stern anchor to keep from swinging into the main river, raft with Aislinn and hunker down for the night. It is dark when we finish. As north and south bound tows go by we check to see if we are far enough off channel – they both assure us we are.
Deer hunters in bass boats check for potential hunting spots. They tell us they will be passing by about 4:00 am. How they can see at that time of the morning is beyond us. But they do.
It’s a warm night, no door in. Denny sleeping in cockpit to watch drifting.

Tuesday, November 25, 2003

There is frost, YES, FROST, over everything – deck, dock, lines, canvas – slippery and cold. It DID freeze! 29 degrees. We’ve bundled up again with longies, fleece, chamois shirts, winter jackets, chuks (that’s a UP ski hat) and with frosted breath we depart in slight fog. A beautiful sunrise with blues and pinks and yellows momentarily breaks through the clouds making for a great photo op.
The only lock today is at Demopolis – we contact the lock master, he mentions it’s “purdy” foggy, but says “come on down” the lock is ready. We head down the three miles but upon arriving at the lock the fog has settled so thickly that the entire lock and dam are shrouded and we are unable to clearly see the lock entrance. Yikes! What we do see posted about 50 feet from the bow is the “danger do not go within 800 feet of spillway” sign and no green light to enter the lock. I freak. Denny stops Kyeta not sure exactly if or where we should enter when the booming voice of the lockmaster says “you’re OK skipper just keep coming.” We did and tied up on the bollard. Only one more lock to go after this. It will be a long day with no anchorages/marinas between Demopolis and Bashi Creek at mile marker 145 about a 70 mile trip. We’re hoping to make Eastern Shore Marine (Fairhope, AL) by Thanksgiving.

Hairpin turns in this part of the Tenn-Tom. And they do mean hairpin – seems like we’re heading south, then all of a sudden we’re going north, then south again all within a few miles. Some of the turns are 180 degree turns.

Bashi Creek is really just a dent in the river bank. Trees form a canopy overhead as we nudge our way into this only one available anchorage to share it with our two boats and two trawlers. We are rafted two and two and anchored stern to bow with the trawlers. There isn’t room to swing or for another boat of any size other than a bass boat. It is a well-protected spot except for wake from powerboats going down river. Warmer tonight than last night.

November 24, 2003 Monday
Layover day – high winds, part for engine, and predicted 27 degree weather tonight. Gail and I bike ride all over town. Another small interesting place with some antebellum homes, many pecan trees (we picked bagsful), home to (play writ) Lillian Hellman’s grandparents. We’ll be warm tonight but will head south tomorrow. About 200 miles to Mobile - another four days.

November 23, 2003 Sunday
On to Demopolis – the place we’ve talked about for years in planning this trip. Everyone traveling south stops here at least for fuel. It is the last big stop before Mobile for provisioning, parts, fuel, etc. We have a seven hour day. Finally we feel like we’re in the south – Spanish Moss hangs from trees along the riverbanks, palmetto trees poke out from shore side growths, and palm trees wave in the breeze on hillsides above the water. And it is warm 75 degrees and sunny. The White Cliffs of Epse are mile long, 50 -60 feet high cliffs reminiscent of White Cliffs of Dover (England). They suddenly come out of nowhere and take ones breath away.
The marina is truly a stop in the river. Very busy – tows, pleasure boats, cruisers. Friends from past marinas are here. It’s fun to chat with them. We meet new people circum-navigators from Oregon, Holland, Guatemala all over the world.

November 22, 2003 Saturday (40th anniversary of assassination of JFK)
After two locks and 65 miles on the river we anchor at Sumter Recreation Area. The current helped a lot today adding about 1knot of speed over ground. I cooked Thanksgiving dinner today a little early. The turkey was thawed so it was now or never. Gail said her mouth watered all day as she kept getting whiffs over the water of roasting turkey. A beautiful anchorage – one of the best we’ve found. Anchored in 12 feet of water completely protected and very secure.

November 21, 2003 Friday
We borrow Bigelow’s big truck to tour the Waverly Plantation Mansion. It is open to the public although the family still lives there. A very impressive antebellum home and acreage, very much self-contained in its day with 50,000 acres, 1000 slaves, various types of manufacturing facilities, livestock, and gardens. The home itself is 8,000 square feet. Priceless antiques – furniture, dishes, paintings, household goods – and they are still being used by the family. The tour guide was very knowledgeable and had many stories to tell. One we found especially interesting – on the dining room table sat two wine decanters on a wagon. It seems that during a party the hostess has a subtle to inform her guest as to whether they can drink or not by the location of the bottles. One must not mention alcohol. If the bottles were “off the wagon” it was okay to drink but if they bottles were “on the wagon” it was not okay. So now we know from whence the saying comes. Two hours was long enough for a tour so we dropped the guys back at the marina.

Columbus in quite a large town – one could find anything needed there. Gail and I did the walking tour of historic antebellum homes. We saw 22 of the 40 listed all exquisite gracious homes, some used as B & Bs, one a residence descendents of original owner, one a former stagecoach stop, one a school – all with fascinating histories.
During the Civil War the women of Columbus cared for soldiers from both the North and the South. After the war ended they put flowers on graves of men from both sides thus initiating “Memorial Day” it is said of Columbus “A place where flowers healed a nation”.
Tennessee Williams was born here. His home is the welcome center building.

November 20, 2003 Thursday
6:00 am departure in Columbus MS about 60 miles away. As we left fogged in Midway Marina we discovered it to be only patchy along the river. It was gorgeous with the sun peeking through the low-lying fog, blue skies above and the water almost an unseen before blue. We did use our radar as line of sight was diminished - we could see about 200 yards. As the fog dissipated spirit-like swirls of vapor waltzed skyward and vanished into thin air. I told Denny it was the spirits of all those who had gone before us on the river.

Floating spiders again today, we had not seen them since the Mississippi. Today a new phenomenon dotted the river, water hyacinths. Some coves and embayments looked like lush carpets of green, no flowers this time of year but we hear they are purple. It looks like it might take over the river in some area. Gail said they pay $8.00 for a small little patch of it every year for their pond at home. We’re trying to figure out a way to get it to Michigan.

By 3:30 after locking through four locks and traveling 60 miles we tie up at Columbus Marina in Mississippi a four year old facility that ranks four anchors in Quimby’s. It has everything – new laundry machines, internet, courtesy car, clean showers, cable hookup, etc. run by Chuck and Barbara Bigelow who met us at the dock – very friendly and helpful. It is a must use place on the river.

As we approached the marina we noticed two large sailboats from Chicago. Low and behold it was Tiffany Devereaux, her mother Gail on Clare and Reinhold and Monic on Khasmir (?). These are the folks we shared mast-shipping with from Chicago. We had only spoken with Tiffany, had never met any of them except Tiffany’s husband Bill. What a small world. They left Peoria November 5 and have come straight through with no delays. They draw 7.5 feet so are somewhat limited as to where they can stop. Bill joins Tiffany in Demopolis on Saturday.
We understand masts were shipped about 16 days ago so hopefully they are in Mobile by now.
Bill and Tiffany are a young “20 something” couple who are taking off for a circumnavigation for three years. Where we head east to go to Florida and the Caribbean they will head west for the Panama Canal and the Pacific.
PBS reporters came to the docks doing a story on cruising the Tenn-Tom and beyond. Both Denny and Tiffany were interviewed, I wonder if it will be on TV.

November 19, 2003 Wednesday
Correction: the birdhouses are for Wood Ducks not Bluebirds.

We still wait for electrical switch to arrive FedEx so we decide to stay over again tonight – not enough time to leave and get to where we need to be for the next stop. Gail and I walk a mile to the Jamie L. Whitten Historical Center and Park that houses an exhibit of the development of the area, the Tenn-Tom, and the TVA. It is informative and we enjoyed speaking with an older woman at the welcome desk. Found out that this area has four poisonous snakes.

Our first “Denny” or “Joel” caught fish dinner. The catfish was quite tasty pan fried just like they do in Mississippi for so says the cookbook I purchased earlier. Next time I’ll add the hush puppies too.

We were hoping to see the meteor showers we had heard about but we either had the wrong time, date, place or it didn’t happen. I only saw two early in the evening.

Tuesday, November 18, 2003
Staying put today at Midway Marina. Tornados and thunderstorm watches posted for this area. It is pouring rain, can’t even see across the river. (Storms from the Gulf to Michigan UP) Yikes!!

AC is working correctly we hope. Denny secured connections throughout boat and ordered a part just in case that doesn’t work.

Tornados south of us – glad we stayed put today and didn’t get any further yesterday. Although the rain keeps falling the severe weather is past – 1:00 PM.

Denny fishing – caught more for dinner.

Monday, November 17, 2003
We have three to five locks to go through today and with predictions of VERY severe weather later today and tomorrow we decide to make it a short day – only 20 miles to Midway Marina – the next marina after Midway is 60 miles away. We really don’t want to be at anchor if we have severe weather.

It’s rather pretty along the river. It is much flatter here than in Kentucky, fall is about two weeks behind the Kentucky Lake area. Bluebird (I think) houses with metal cones (to prevent predators from getting the eggs) line the riverbanks, pockets of water enclosed long-dead tree trunks are ghostly reminders of where land once stood, bald eagle nests dot the pines high above the water.

We drop 144 feet today through three locks. These dams/locks are smaller in width than the Kentucky Lake dams/locks but the first we lock through, the Jamie Whitten, drops 84 feet, the highest lock east of the Mississippi. As we descend small gushes of water leak from cracks in the lock walls. They remind us of water fountain, cherub statues in gardens but with scary thoughts of the whole thing breaking loose.

The Natchez Trace crosses the Tenn-Tom along this stretch. This historic route between Nashville, TN and Natchez, MS marks an Indian trail turned roadway heavily traveled by traders, pioneers, and merchants. Today it is part of the National Parks System.

We tie up at the marina, a spot in the river near Fulton, MS – 20 miles from Tupelo (Elvis P’s birthplace), 95 miles from Memphis and 140 miles from Birmingham, AL. A courtesy van is available and Gail and I hit the Super Wal-Mart again. We really don’t need anything but it gives us an opportunity to see what’s around. It has turned sunny and hot. We dock with a number of cruisers we have met on the way - Wayne and Martha, Bonn Fire, the guys with the dog. Jack and Pam on Waltzing Matilda were delayed due to starter problems but will head out Wednesday with Spookie and two other sailboats. We wonder if the two other sailboats might be the people we met in Chicago who are sharing our mast shipping.

Our AC power is messed up again. We had problems at Pickwick State Park but thought we had it figured out. Works off and on. Denny is checking and testing everything.

Spoke with Cal today who related the horror story of picture windows blowing out of their home during last week’s storm in TC. How scary. Glad they are OK.

We buckle down and zip up everything in preparation for the 70 mph winds and storms predicted for after midnight. It is warm 75 degrees and ominous even at 9:00 pm.

Sunday, November 16, 2003
Although it is gray and rainy today we decide to head out. Bad storms are predicted for Monday and Tuesday so it was today or wait until Wednesday to head south. About 36 miles to the next marina – Bay Springs Marina. Now we are in the NE corner of Mississippi.

The Tenn-Tom Waterway connects the Tennessee River with the Tombigbee River running through Mississippi and Alabama 234 miles from Pickwick Lake, TN River, to Demopolis, AL about halfway down AL. The river south of Demopolis is known as Black Warrior – Tombigbee Waterway. It is the largest excavation project in history. The Tennessee Valley Authority in the 1930s created the lake and dam system along the Tennessee River. In 1946 Congress approved the project but it wasn’t until 1971 that the Army Corps of Engineers began the project. In 1985 the ribbon was cut to open the Tenn-Tom Waterway. Ironically 250 years earlier the French explorer Marquis De Montcalm recommended to the King of France building a canal to connect the Tennessee and Tombigbee Rivers for control of the new world. Over 350 million cubic yards were removed from the entire waterway – almost twice what was moved for the Panama Canal. In a 39 mile stretch between Pickwick Lake and Bay Springs Lake (NE Mississippi) 150 million cub yards alone were removed more than for the Suez Canal. It was a tremendous endeavor. Part of this canal is a long straight stretch of river with rocks covering the banks and trees on hills in the distance. In all of this earth moving only one town “Holcut” was relocated. A memorial park marks the site. Once through the cut wooded banks, small creeks and coves, and lakes become more prevalent. Cabins dot the landscape again.

Bay Springs Marina is our stop for the night -A small facility in an extremely remote area. Denny and Joel decide to go in the courtesy van to Crows Neck Sports shop to get bait – a fishing, hunting, groceries, snacks, hot hamburger and daily news kind of place. It is the ONLY thing around here.

Denny is successful catching a couple of catfish – 16” and 12” – used rooster liver for bait. Yuck! We need a few more to have a mess for four.

Saturday, November 15, 2003 Opening “Deer” Day!
No deer, just dear, on our boats (although we have seen a few) except for the computer game. I think Joel has gotten a few, Denny hasn’t.

Today we leave the Tennessee River lakes and dams and enter the Tenn-Tom Waterway. It is about 10 miles, a quick trip, today because unless one gets an EARLY start the Tenn-Tom cut area makes for a long day. So we get a few miles closer. This area actually touches three states: Alabama, Mississippi and Tennessee. Aqua Yacht Harbor sits on a large cove off the main channel. It is the most pleasant marina with incredibly polite (and cute) staff. A courtesy car is available so we take advantage of it for a quick trip to Iuka, MS. I think Gail and I have hit every Wal-Mart close to the river on the way down.

Friday, November 14, 2003
We rented a care for a day to visit Shiloh National Military Park in Shiloh, TN. It is a preserved landscape that borders the river for almost a mile but we could not tie up along the river.
The driving, walking tour guides one through the events that occurred during the two-day battle, April 6-7, 1862. We recognized names of people, places and event from our history teaching days; Bloody Pond, Sunken Road, Hornets Nest, Shiloh Church, Grant, Buell, Sherman, Johnston, Beauregard, Johnnie Clem. It certainly made the Civil War more vivid.
If the collective sounds and noises of people and events could be heard when visiting a spot, one would be overwhelmed with shock and grief. Thanks goodness trees cannot talk as many of them were witness to the events of those two days.

Thursday, November 13, 2003 Julie and Doug have a new son, Michael Christopher!
At day or two at Pickwick State Park Marina. Gail and I ride bikes to town to grocery shop. It’s about 1.5 miles from the marina. This market is a basic food store with very friendly, helpful people. They drive us back to marina to unload groceries then back to the store for our bikes. We continue our ride checking out the area: hunting store, antiques, banks, arboretum of native trees, a few restaurants and a Bent and Dent store. This was the best deal in town - $1.00 or 2/$1.00 for most of our purchases – everything from baking goods, to straws and containers. We still can’t figure out where the people in this area live.

Five hours later we return to the marina. Water is being turned off in the marina due to freeze wornings tonight so… no water at the docks. Denny is working on the engine – battery concerns, alternator, regulator ? ? ? Paul Jacobs once said the two topics of conversation among cruisers were batteries and water. How true it is?

We make arrangements with Jack and Pam to rent a car so we can visit Shiloh tomorrow. It is about a 10 mile trip from here. Denny, the ever history teacher, will write about it tomorrow.

Wednesday, November 12, 2003 Julie should have her baby today.
There must have been a draw down yesterday. The depth has dropped about a foot and the current is at .7 knots. Hopefully this will hold true as we approach Pickwick Lock and Dam. The current typically picks up about three miles before the site.

There is “no service” on the mobile phone today. The guide books indicate that service is sketchy at best in this area. Looking at a land map of KY and TN one can understand there isn’t much of anything around this area. However, beautiful homes of all sorts and sizes perch along the river ledges of limestone some hidden among trees, some visible for miles upstream. We see more evidence of civilization along this stretch of the river than on any before. These must be summer homes of people from the cities. Not very many people are seen about.

It is 67 degrees, overcast, a bit of rain but we are snug in our cockpit enclosure. To think some boats have no dodger much less an enclosure.

Mistletoe is abundant in tall trees along the less populated areas of the river. Occasionally cows dot the riverbanks from our anchorage yesterday we could hear the mooing through the night.

Near the town of Savannah, TN stands a house building in 1830 on a prehistoric Indian mound. It is known as Cherry Mansion, a two story square columned house. On April 6, 1862 Ulysses S. Grant was having breakfast and heard the rumble of guns in the distance. His troops were about seven miles up river at Pittsburg Landing. This battle came to be known as the Battle of Shiloh. It is here that 100,000+ Union and Confederate soldiers met in a two day battle. At the end 23,000 lay dead and dying. The site now is “Shiloh National Military Park.” As there is no place to tie up or anchor in the area we will rent a car and return to visit in a few days.

The current increases about 2 knots as we work our way upstream to Pickwick Lock and Dam. The lockmaster indicates that if we can get there is 30 minutes we can lock through immediately or it will be a three hour wait circling in the current. We hurry on to have the lockmaster call telling us that he will lock us through the small chamber “just come on up when you get there and we’ll get you through.” We locked through in record time – 30 minutes to rise 57 feet. We have left Kentucky Lake and are now in Pickwick Lake.

Pickwick State Park Marina is about one mile from the dam. We dock before dark having traveled 52 miles today. Jack and Pam on Waltzing Matilda are waiting for us on the dock along with a number of other boat/ers heading south.

Tuesday, November 11, 2003
Joel is up and around – still in pain but at least moving. Even though it is gray and windy we decide to depart at 8:30. We will anchor tonight as there are no marinas between here and where we are going that are deep enough for our 4’ and 4.5” draft. The water is low this year. These boats with 6’ and 7’ drafts really have problems with marinas and anchorages.

Many fishermen speed along in go fast bass boats, some even catching fish. We watch a man in a work boat pulling up nets, bait, drop nets and move to the next spot. We speculate that he may be catching turtles, mussels, or bait. We really aren’t sure.

The landscape changes dramatically along the river with high limestone ledges. Books relate it formed 150-350 million years ago. The river narrows to 75’ across shore to shore and increases to 50’ to 80’ deep. This area must be a huge gorge for this to happen.

Many legends and stories abound. As legend has it a woman jumped to her death from one of these ledges (Lady Finger Bluff) rather than be captured by Indians – ah legends!

Alvin C. York Bridge – is he the poet, soldier from WWI? Can’t remember. There seem to be many bridges, embayments, towns, landings, etc. named after famous people.

We travel about 40 miles today past many islands with possible anchorages, some small marinas with impossible water depths no real towns, just camp areas and clusters of new homes. Lots of home building going on along the river.

On one of the sharpest hairpin turns on the Tennessee at mile marker 152.5 we anchor in the idle of Beech Creek Island. 4:00 pm is the magic “anchor by” hour or it gets too dark. We set anchor in about 12.5’ of water in 1.5 K current. A warm and pleasant night. Denny sleeps in the cockpit o watch barge traffic – many pass throughout the night.

The Delta Queen a real riverboat full of passengers goes downstream with its red paddlewheel at the stern picking and dumping water as it turns. Where she came from and where she was going we’re not sure.

Monday, November 10, 2003
opportunity We stay put at Cuba Landing waiting for Joel to heal a little and at least be mobile. It is another for laundry, picture printing, log writing, and walking. Denny gets to fish. He purchases a three day Tennessee license and some minnows – so he’s in seventh heaven. He caught nothing that he wanted to keep.

Gail and I do our routine walk – let’s go see what there is around to see. The marina is in a remote area with nothing but a few houses, the woods and water around. Or at least that is what it seems from our vantage point. The woods no longer look like northern Michigan with hardwoods and fir trees. They begin to seem more southern with gnarled, twisted, snake-like vines slithering up and down tree trunks; small, short underbrush one can’t see through and full of sounds cracking and snapping from what we’re sure is something watching - squirrels and a couple dogs. We come upon a sign for “Hamm Cemetery” and of course have to check it out. We follow a dirt road to deeper into the woods to come to a small, old cemetery out in the middle of nowhere. Headstones dating back to the early 1800s but as recent as 1996. Can’t imagine where the people lived that are buried here.

Tonight we go to bed with no heater on and a visitor on our dock. About five feet from the boat is a blue heron keeping a watchful eye on his territory. A very comfortable night.

November 9, 2003
6:30 am wake-up call from Gail informing us Joel can’t move – he pulled his back and in tremendous pain. We sit tight until noon when it’s decided Denny will help Gail haul anchor, get back on Kyeta, haul anchor and lead to Cuba Landing about four hours upstream. All goes smoothly for the 30 mile trip. The river changes this stretch again. It seems more river than lake, narrower, swampier with a Cypress tree now and then, willows, and low river vegetation still green. It looks like a watercolor painting with muted shades of blue sky, green and brown shoreline and blue/green water all layered across the horizon one on top of another.

Many boaters on the water today – fishermen, shellers (for freshwater clams), hunters – but only one tow with two barges. It is the fewest we’ve seen since the Illinois River.

We’ll probably be here a couple of days or until Joel is moving again.

November 8, 2003
6:00 am daylight, Cindy’s open, and the fishermen on the move. It’s cold (40 degrees) but sunny. Breakfast – bacon, ham, eggs, home fries, biscuits and gravy – southern style. A quick walk with Gail through this state park of cabins, lodge, restaurants, marina, amphitheater but no campsites. Reminds us of Higgin’s Lake Conference Center (somewhat).

Each dam along the Tennessee River holds back enough water to form a large lake. There are nine of them each with a different name. We still travel on Kentucky Lake. The next one up river is Pickwick Dam and Lake. These continue on the Tennessee River all the way to Knoxville, a series of nine dams and lakes along this 650 mile stretch of water. On the nautical charts of this area is a marking designating submerged roads, ponds, ferries, etc. all flooded when this was constructed. Kentucky Lake looks to be comparable in size to East Bay but not all the water is navigable for sailboats – wooded hillsides and rocky formations are typical shoreline. Embayment is the term used here for coves, bays and inlets.

We see another flock of pelicans today and “coots” (a small, cute, little, black, fish-eating) duck by the tens.

Denny has been walking normally for about five days now. No pain to speak of, thank goodness.

We travel about 50 miles today toasty warm with our enclosure all around – thank you Grand Traverse Canvas. It was 80 degrees inside the cockpit and about 50 degrees outside.

We anchor in Richard’s Creek embayment in about 14’ of water at about 4:00, but 5:00 it is dark. It a good sized and if one thinks 80 degrees and salt water a Caribbean anchorage with light dotted, high hills and the full moon’s reflection flooding across the water could be imagined. A lunar eclipse tonight, the next full moon lunar eclipse will be in 108 years. Rather spectacular.

Dinghy ride, appetizers and dinner with cruisers from Racine, WS we met in Alton a few weeks ago. Years ago Pam dated a teacher we know from Traverse City. A small world it is.

Another 50 miles tomorrow, hopefully. At this rate we will be at the Ten-Tom in a couple of days. The Ten-Tombigbee is about 450 miles long with 12 locks to go though. It will be 7-10 days at best with no stops longer than overnight. We’ll see.

November 7, 2003 This marks our 2nd month of moving onto Kyeta
We finally head further south today. It is a cold, dreary, gray day about 40-52 degrees most of the day. Windy from the north but the lake (Kentucky) is magnificent. We decide to anchor for a short stay in Pisqua Bay a mere 1.5 hours from Green Turtle Bay for a jaunt to shore, fishing and lunch. The stone quarry that was submerged with the building of the lake was quite a site. Colorful, creative, tasteful graffiti painted on more than half of the rock walls – Greek letters, school emblems, Snoopy, Winnie, Superman, to more abstract colorful renditions of animals, fish, and the likes. We especially took notice of “Friday Night Dinner Club” and “Fearsome Foursome.” It was worth the 1.5 mile dinghy ride into this small cover off the main larger harbor near the state park area.

A few fish were caught but not charm added to the necklace. That will happen when we can eat the fish that was caught.
Gail and I walked for almost two hours through the Hillman Ferry Campground. People are still camping, only one tent, but many trailers. Water was being turned off today at sites but showers and pumpout stations are available all year. Hunting and fishing are the draw now. We are enough south that vegetation is different that in Michigan: sweet gum trees with red and orange leaves and small “Sputnik” like seed pods still attached to branches as well as covering the ground; hedge apples “ugly grapefruit” of the woods scattered here and there maybe for deer or raccoons to eat; hickory nuts galore many eaten with only pods left on the ground. We return to the boats with pockets full of treasures from the Land Between the Lakes (LBL).
LBL was designated as a recreational and environmental education area by President Kennedy in the 60’s so much like the Sleeping Bear Dunes area private land ownership is sparse if not nonexistent now. The land is on the nation’s largest inland peninsulas is about 40 miles long with 300 miles of back country roads, 200 miles of trails and numerous campgrounds and picnic areas.

On to Kenlake State Park Marina, a small marina with a restaurant (Cindy’s on the Barge), fuel docks, bathrooms and wonderful, informative, helpful staff. They open at 6:00 am for breakfast. We’ll have a “restaurant, grease breakfast” Cal’s once in a while favorite.

Kelly R. calls from Grand Traverse Yacht Club. It’s snowing in Traverse City. Good to hear from folks at the GTYC.

November 6, 2003
Rainy and cold so we decide to stay at Green Turtle Bay Marina another day. We lunch at Iron Kettle a "down home cookin’" kind of place with having to ask names of some dishes we eat. It feels like we’re in another country with different language, foods, and culture. I commented yesterday that I hadn’t seen so many teased, sprayed hairdos since the sixties.

Gail and I borrow the marina courtesy car, a small minivan in need of a new muffler, heater/AC, electronics and just about everything else. It did get us to Paducah about 25 miles away. We had it for two hours so it was a whirlwind trip to visit the world’s largest quilt museum. It is 30,000 square feet of exhibition space with 250 quilts spanning the decades from early 1800 to 2003 on display. The creativity and initiative it takes to tackle a project (quilt) so large is inspiring. Unimaginable themes – underground railroad with directions to freedom, Tibetan Sandmen inspired with exquisite patterns, wildlife, pioneer life, friendship, marriage – in appliqué, crewel work, patterns, with hand-stitches so delicate and small one had to strain one’s eyes to see them - masterpieces of children, women and men from around the world. And a quilt that looked so natural it was shocking to realize that it was wooden, yes wooden. The special exhibit for these few months was a collection of quilts from around the country remembering the Lewis and Clark westward expedition. It was a juried event all the quilts so different but with that common thread. The grand prize went to one with Lewis, Clark and Sacagawea figures quilted onto a background of life depicted of the era. The figures so real they seemed to jump out at you. Truly exquisite it was.

Tuesday, November 4, 2003 Happy Anniversary, Mike and Kim.
Wednesday, November 5, 2003
A couple days for laundry, shopping, food restocking, boat cleaning, maintenance and repair, and regrouping. We meet many new people who are at various points along the way north or south on boats. Some being gone weeks others years but all willing to give friendly advice and suggestions. Wayne and Martha Adams from Illinois drive us to Paducah for groceries and beer as this is a "dry" county and the guys are out of beer.

Cal left today after being with us for eight days. We had a good time having him here and miss him tonight. He promises to come back later in the trip.

Monday, November 3, 2003
It will be another bathing suit day on the river. A quick walk through downtown Paducah finds a quaint old river town. Murals depicting Paducah history line the river on flood walls/gates. Restoration of 300 year old buildings seems on-going with quaint stores, cafes, restaurants, and businesses inviting passersby entrance. It is a Civil War era and before town with many memorials depicting heroes/heroines throughout the streets.

We leave from "Big E Marina" heading about 12 miles up the Ohio for the Cumberland River rather than the Tennessee River as it is supposedly more scenic although longer in distance. Heavy traffic and much floating debris including a six point deer. Even so we make good time and finally are off the Ohio River. Denny is so happy he celebrates by shooting off a few bottle rockets.

The Cumberland River will take us into the Kentucky Lakes at the Barkley Lock and Dam. It is a narrow, scenic but working river - 50-60 yards across and 12' - 50' deep. Trees, high cliffs, wildlife follow the riverbank. We are about a week late for the fall color peak, one can only imagine the hills ablaze with color. High on one cliff we see what our UP friends would call a “camp” with its own confederate flag flying. We think it will be the first of many. This is the south.

We hear a radio call to the lock master at Barkley Lock and Dam and are informed that it will be a 2 hour wait to lock through. It is 4:00 at this point so will be dark when we exit the lock. Thankfully we don't have far to go but this is something we try to avoid. We like to be in port before dark, traveling in unknown waters at night is uncomfortable at best and dangerous at
worst. We lock though at 6:00 and slowly and carefully arrive at Green Turtle Marina about 7:00.

Sunday, November 2, 2003
It is to be a long day up the Ohio. At this point the current will be against us. We're not sure how strong it is and hope for the best. After releasing our anchor from a submerged tree we head around a short corner onto the Ohio River. Our trip on the Mississippi is over. A new river, a new state and almost another month - more beads to add to our necklaces.

It is SLOW going up stream. Sometimes we slow to 2K - 5K over ground rather than 9.5K - 10K going down the Mississippi, so it doubles the time it takes to get someplace. We hope to arrive by 2:30 or so. Cal is with us today so it is my turn to cook. Gail and I flip/flop nights to cook. It works well and gives each a break every other night.

It is so warm today, 80s, and bathing suits are the attire for the day. We pass many loaded barges on this wide river. Fort Massac a restored 1700 fort-State Park looks inviting with its logs cabins and wall.

On the way to Paducah, KY we travel through three lock and dams. They are wicket dams that are in the down position to help control water level on the lower Mississippi. All of the water of the Ohio pours through this area in an unbelievable fury, especially at lock #52, the third one going up stream. Upon approaching the area one can see what looks like bubbling, boiling
water - it's hard to believe that it's not hot to the touch - 70+ feet of depth. The current is incredible, the locks are not is use so boats go over the wicket dam. Kyeta plunges forward and figuratively hits a wall to the point where we make 0 knots of speed over ground but the water rushes past so it looks like the boat is moving. It is unbelievable. The engine is revved as high as it goes and we make a slow 3 knots over ground. It is like riding a bike up hill against gale force winds. We understand that sometimes people are towed through the area or have to wait until the dam is closed and the lock working so the current evens out and traversing become easier.

The mileage today and yesterday are exactly the same 47.5 miles overland. Saturday it took 5 hours (with current) , Sunday it took 10 hours (against current). Hopefully the Tennessee River will have less current.

Saturday, November 1, 2003
Depart about 8:45 with a muddy mess on the anchor, then on the decks. It is unbelievable.

We notice white stringy things falling from the sky or so we think. Pollen? Pollution? Thousands of tiny spiders probably Charlotte's great, great grandchildren attached to webs floating over the water on air currents. What a sight! Webs cover dodger, bimini, lifelines, anchor, anywhere they land. Now how big will they get????

We traveled through our first major loop on the water way. By water the distance is 12+ miles by land about 1 1/2 miles. Gail and I could have walked across land faster than the boats traveled by water to the same spot. There are many more to come.

The river widens as it approaches the Ohio River entrance and where the upper Mississippi becomes the lower Mississippi. At this juncture one can see three states, Missouri, Illinois, and now Kentucky. We anchor at a river like waterway named Angelo Chute. We explore the shoreline and go for dinghy rides.

A jumping carp you say, yea right! We lead the way up Angelo Chute, three of us in our dinghy, four in Mars's . Amid screams and hysterical laughter we turn to see fish jumping and chasing the dinghies and huge splashes from tails. We've heard stories about these carp landing in boats, bumping into people. Apparently one man was so startled when he was hit that he fell, hit his head and died. A 2 1/2 foot carp attacks the dinghy hitting Denny on his hip, skipping over the water toward the bow where Linda and I grab cushions to fend off a possible attach, all of us screaming and laughing at this impossibility. Gail took great pictures of the event. A fish charm will be added to the necklace to mark the occasion.