Thursday, February 08, 2007

Bequia Beckons!

If we lived in the Caribbean, returning to Bequia would feel like going home, spending the holidays there made sense. Since our chartering days in the 90s this small island has been a favorite of ours. It lies just south of St. Vincent and is the most northern of the Grenadines. Admiralty Bay is a wonderful anchorage on the west side and is a hustle and bustle of activity with boat venders delivering fresh baked bread, ice, fuel, water, fish and and anything else one might need. Boats of all makes, sizes and countries of origin sit amidst the locally made fishing and ferry boats. On one of our first visits here, a sleek, former America's Cup racer sailed into the anchorage. I've not seen Dennis move so quickly into the dinghy - he had to go see this vessel - it was "Shamrock" newly refurbished at millions of dollars - her dark, green hull highly polished, and her teak and brass gleaming in the sun. The dinghy looked like a bathtub toy sitting next to her.

Aislinn was anchored when we arrived but was leaving the following morning - we managed a quick catch-up over dinner. They wanted to be in Antigua at Christmas - maybe. It seemed the whole of Trinidad cruising society came and went while we were there. Friends from our southbound trip as well as folks we met heading north again were in Bequia for the holidays. Sailors talk of the "Bequia Blast" or the "Christmas Winds" - now we can speak of them too. Winds come down through the mountains of the island in a venturi effect blast, whipping the boats in the harbor with 35 knot gusts (40mps). The anchor is well-set and so we hold. We stay through the holidays.

Town is an array of shops, restaurants, chandleries, small hotels and street markets. The largest of these is the "Rasta Market" an excursion in and of itself. This semi-enclosed, sea-side structure is home to about 15 men and women selling fresh fruits and vegetables - avocados, bananas, pineapples, mangos, papaya, ginger, garlic, onions, tomatoes, lettuce, herbs, roots, "anything you want, mahn". We always manage to find something we "need". There is continuous activity on the streets of this small village.

We spend three weeks enjoying all the island had to offer - snorkeling the many reefs, swimming in warm, crystal clear water, touring the island by maxi-taxi (an eight passenger open-aired van), and sampling the local cuisine. We watched bowl games in Spanish via a Puerto Rican channel, had "happy hours" and pot lucks with friends, and even managed to cook a turkey for Christmas dinner on Kyeta. We stayed through the New Year to witness the renowned ""Old Year's End" fireworks at midnight. It was quite a site with the 300 or so boats at anchor in the harbor forming a backdrop for the lights and colors streaking through the night sky. We actually managed to stay awake.

This seemed to mark a time of change for cuising friends - many heading north towards home in the US or England, some heading south and some staying in the area. We said goodbye to Vindomar and Justoo as the head south to Trinidad for Carnival, see you later to Casa del Mar and Ticketoo who were staying for the jazz festival later in January, and "happy you're going our way" to Audrey Paige, Equinox, Memory, Conch'd Out and Draco. Glad there is such a thing as email so we can keep in touch. We head north to St. Lucia with an overnight stop in St. Vincent but we'll be back in late March for another visit.

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