Carnival, Rhum, and More in Martinique

Over a month in Martinique - unbelievable! We wanted to spend Carnival in one of the French islands and word on the seas was "go to Martinique", so we went. St. Anne's is a small village next to Le Marin on the south coast of the island. We'd spent a few days in this spot last spring on our way south and were eager to return. The water is clean, warm and swimmable; boat parts and chandleries are abundant; groceries are stocked with Brie, wine and baguettes; laundry is do-it-yourself; and wifi is free. What more could one need.

Carnival was an amazing event. It began on the weekend we arrived with a queen's contest and parades in the village. As the village is small the parade snakes around through the town and exterior village many times before arriving back at the town meeting area. This first of many parades presented percussion bands with members dressed in local/ethnic costumes dancing and chanting to the beat; a contingent of "devils" fancily dressed out in santin, sequins, and elaborate head pieces; and people wandering about following the performers. Throughout the weeks prior to Ash Wednesday various happenings could be witnessed in the village. Carnival really started the Sunday prior to Ash Wednesday with "Queens Night." The "queens" are the elderly women in native dress all gussied up sashaying through town to the square where they are served dinner. The colors, plaids, hats and festive garb were something to behold. There certainly is an air of pride and respect for these elegant ladies. The following night we watched the "Ugly Ladies" parade - men in drag parading through the streets in skimpy feminine clothing, doing lewd acts and strutting their stuff. Tuesday people paraded around and around and around, everyone wearing red - grandpas and grandmas and newborns carousing the streets. Bands of drummers, loudspeakers on trucks blaring, people chanting and the continual addition of people parading as the sound trucks circled the town fifteen or more times. It seemed that the activity reached a frenzy level tonight - the dancing in the streets quite a show - body parts moving and shaking and twisting in ways we're still trying to figure out -- all to the beat of the drums and the sound system. A truck carrying a papier-mache devil that would be the focal point of Wednesday's carnival culmination circled around and around. Then on Wednesday night we "burned the devil". Everyone wore black and white the mark of mourning and again there were the every-present drumming, sound truck, throng of people and parading and dancing in the streets. A pyre of sugarcane stalks and wood had been prepared on the shore earlier in the day in anticipation of the final act after dark. After MANY times around the town the "devil" was drive to the beach, placed on the pyre and burned with great hoopla and cheering. This burning was followed by a smaller devil made by the "ugly ladies". It was great fun, and we're still trying to figure out the meaning of it all, but in general it seemed to be quite a family affair, there was much tradition and preparation for it all, and although it was not as elaborate as the Rio, New Orleans or Trinidad Carnivals people had a grand time. I need to do some more research as to what it all means.

We managed a couple of tours by car of the island - all the way to the northern tip as well as the east and west coasts. It truly is a magnificent island. It's Carib name is "Madinina" - Island of Flowers. From turquoise water and sandy beaches to high, mountain peaks covered in rain forest vegetation we are constantly in awe of the natural beauty. The Gardin du Plantes a roadway between St. Pierre and Fond St. Denis hosts a display of tropical, rain forest flowers with local communities competing with one another. I'd be hard pressed to choose which was the most beautiful. The flowers that we see in expensive, rare bouquets in the States are sold in five gallon buckets along the road and in the markets. No wonder it got its name.

Stopping for breakfast at a beach side restaurant was one of the funniest experiences we had while here. The guys wanted eggs and meat - well in France one get "petit dejeuner" or rolls, juice and coffee for breakfast. In my broken French/English and referring to my ever-present dictionary the lovely lady who was not only receptionist, but waitress and cook as well said "c'est bon" and went to prepare the food. Very shortly we breakfasted on three fried eggs, two hot dogs (yes, hot dogs), toasted baguette, jelly, juice, cafe au lait and water. Not what we had expected but truly a nice gesture on her part.

Visits to a number of rhum distilleries convinced Denny that his all time favorite rum continues to be Grenadian "Westerhall." It's always impressive to see it made. We actually dinghied up a mangrove river, walked three miles and back to visit one of the local distilleries. And I'm not much for rum.

After a month is St. Anne's and area we lifted anchor to sail under spinnaker just around the western corner to Grand Anse. It's a small, tucked away, lovely anchorage with wonderful clean, clear, warm water, a beach side tourist community and many boats at anchor. A couple days here and we moved to Anse Mitan just around another corner - a community with all the amenities - food, wifi, ATM, ferries and swimming. Six days here until we could head north as we waited for weather. We ended up taking a day ferry to Fort du France on a glacone run (the best chocolate and raspberry ice cream we've had). Alas the freezer was "kaput" so there was none. What a disappointment! We did manage to get some boat things at the chandlery, so all was not a waste.

On March 4th we leeft one of our favorite islands to head north to Guadeloupe. Audrey Paige, Conchd Out, Memory and new friends on Break and Run are with us. Knowing we will return again on our way south later this month makes it not quite so sad. We've had a marvelous stay on magical Martinique.

Lovely Lucy - Isn't There A Song?

Bequia - St. Vincent - St. Lucia
Bypassing St. Vincent sailing north from Bequia on a direct route to St. Lucia is at minimum 60 miles - we plan 5 knot averages and hope for more - but at that rate it is at least a twelve hour sail. One of the rules of sailing in the Caribbean is "don't arrive after dark in a new anchorage." We have only done this once in all our travels and it was with much help from already anchored cruisers. In the tropics daylight only last about 12 hours so a 12 hour sail is the max one can expect. St. Vincent has a shakey reputation in terms of out of the way anchorages being subject to boardings and thefts so we were reluctant to stop anywhere along the coast although our overnight stop on the way south last year was uneventful. A new cruising friend convinced us that "Wallilabou Bay" (just try to pronounce it!!) was a great, interesting spot for an overnight. It would break up the 60 miles into two much easier days. We took his suggestion - and are happy we did.

Wallilabou Bay is in part the site of the film "Pirates of the Caribbean" and much of the set and props are still visible. One can actually stand on the dock, see the gallows, and walk along the warehouses along the waterfront. We moored and tied a line to shore with the help of the "boatboys" who happen to be very helpful, a bit overly friendly, and willing to sell or find you anything you need. We took a short hike up into the hills to a small waterfall, had dinner at the restaurant at the dock and with 12 other boats in the anchorage spent the night feeling secure enough. An early morning departure and a seven hour sail put us in St. Lucia at the southwestern village of Soufriere very near the famed Pitons.

St. Lucia was going to be a quick stop. Again reports of security and safety issues clouded our desire to spend much time here. Three weeks later we were delighted that we took the time anchoring at different spots along the west coast of this 25 mile long island. We checked in with customs at Soufriere expecting a nightmare, but being welcomed, paying no fees, and clearing in for six months if we wanted to stay that long. How things have changed in the last few years. "Benny" a local restaurant owner has taken it upon himself to be the "cruiser friendly" man in the area. His son met us in the anchorage, helped tie us to a mooring buoy, picked us up in his skiff to get us to customs, and delivered ice to our boat. The next night we enjoyed the best local food we've eaten at Benny's "Harmony Beach" Restaurant. We felt perfectly safe while at this anchorage even with boatboys wanting to sell, trade, or beg anything and everything. St. Lucia is now requiring these guys to attend some classes and get a license to provide services to tourists.

We snorkeled the Pitons - incredible, majestic points (you've see pictures) remnants of past volcanic activity sticking 2500+ feet in the air - the underwater slope as deep as the above water height; the fish and coral abundant, colorful and varied. We hiked to a hot waterfall that was captured in baths and had a brief soak in hot, fresh water. We toured the botanical gardens - truly exquisite in full bloom with many ticked away private gardens. The bat caves, another local attraction, nearby prompted a "dinghy drift" at dusk waiting for the millions of bats to depart a large vertical crack in the cliff side - couldn't wait long enough to actually see them.

Points north put us with brief stops in Anse Chastanet - even better snorkeling, Marigot a tourist stop up island and Rodney Bay - a large community with a great anchorage in the north. We spent nine days here anchored near Pigeon Island. We toured the island with friends in a rented vehicle, bussed it to Castries another nearby town where the cruise ships dock, visited the fort high on Pigeon Island and swam from nearby beaches. With time moving on we started planning for Martinique a 24 mile sail north. Our memories of St. Lucia are of friendly people, beautiful and lush landscapes, great anchorages and a definite desire to return.

S/V Kyeta