Grenadines Revisited

The Grenadines are the chain of small islands lying south of St. Vincent and north of Carriacou, Grenada. They are part of St. Vincent and connect to the "mainland" by daily ferries, planes and the "government." Each island with its own personality and draw: Bequia - the hub of island activity; Mustique, Palm, and Petit St. Vincent - hoity-toity and private; Mayreau, Canouan, and Union - somewhat underdeveloped; and Tobago Cays - the now marine reserve, a spectacular anchorage behind a reef with a view all the way to Africa. Next to Grand Traverse Bay and the Virgin Islands this area with it's multitude of anchorages and the day-sail ease of reaching them is a very enjoyable place to cruise. We have sailed here a number of times in the last ten years. We decided that this was the place to meet Kelly and Glen for spring break - fly into Union and out of Bequia - we wouldn't have to repeat any anchorage for ten days and it was the annual Easter Regatta in Bequia. So be it – to the Grenadines for Easter. It's about 200 miles to Bequia - to Mackinaw Island and back. We left ourselves about ten days to manage this with short day hops down the island chain.

We check with Chris Parker, our weather guru, and it seemed we would have good brisk winds hopefully out of the east or a little northeast. From the Saintes to Dominica the first 35 miles we maintained our average of 5 to 5.5 knots and anchored just north of the main town of Roseau off the small village of Canefield. Our plan to "yellow flag it" meant we wouldn't check into customs. It was to be an early morning start the next day to reach Grande Anse, Martinique before dark. We hauled anchor just as the dawn broke in an absolutely flat, calm anchorage and hoisted sail under motor. We thought we might have to motorsail to Martinique but as the winds picked up a bit we gently sailed the five miles to the southern tip of Dominica and hoped that the prediction of 15 – 20 knot winds and 5 foot seas would give us a doable, quick sail. We had reefed the mainsail, a habit we recently acquired, had the dinghy on the tow like usual when we rounded the tip the weather forecast quickly surpassed our worst expectations. We were blasted by winds at a steady 28-30 knots with gusts of 35 and building, 10 foot seas breaking around us. As we were putting in the second reef Denny said "I'm for going back." He radioed Audrey Paige who was nearby and before he could relay the complete question of "How do you feel about turning back?" they had said "yes" and were turned heading north again. Sailing back to the anchorage was a fast beam run in flat seas. We ended up in Canefield for another two nights waiting for decent weather. Whoever said "sailing is hours of boredom interspersed with seconds are sheer terror" is absolutely correct.

We sail south averaging 6.3 knots between Dominica and Martinique and then have to motorsail in the lee of the island. Denny thinks the engine is vibrating too much again and is quite concerned so it's a slower motorsail/sail to Grande Anse for a quiet night at anchor. Still the engine vibration continues even after a slight adjustment so we will sail to Marin and check it again. The 15 miles around to the south shore of the island should take 2.5 to 3 hours it takes us six hours - no reliable engine, wind on the nose and unfavorable current. Celebrated my birthday out for dinner, did laundry at 9:30 PM and contemplated vibration problems.

Aligning the engine we discover two broken engine mounts - ah, the vibration problem and a worn exhaust hose. The chandlery had the necessary parts on the shelf at three times the price than in the States but oh, well.....Working until 9:00 PM in close, cramped quarters, in places one can't even begin to see, Denny with my help changed four engine mounts, aligned, and started the engine with an "Oh, yea!, that's much better." The following morning, the exhaust hose, manifold and mixing elbows were replaced. Thank goodness he can figure all this out.

Time was running short so another early morning start for St. Lucia. We couldn't dally there so headed directly to the southern most anchorage between the Pitons. An incredible sail - all day - six hours, 40 miles, average 6.5 knots; some 25 knot gusts of wind in squalls and rain but it was OK and we were "hauling ass" as they say.

We picked up a mooring ball in a truly spectacular anchorage directly between the Pitons. Petit and Gros Piton rise majestically straight out of the sea. Nestled snuggly between them in a lush, green valley that flows to the shore are a couple tropical island hotels and a number of small private homes. The sunset of pinks, oranges, yellows and grays marked the end of a perfect day. We sat in the cockpit after dinner as the gentle wind rocked the boat watching the lights on the shore and hillside and listening to the wonderful, romantic, sensual sounds of a sax playing songs familiar enough to hum along. Wow!!

Tomorrow to Bequia for reprovisioning and cleaning. A slow trip due to wind on the nose and adverse current. We did average 5 knots overall and at times hit 6.5. We were happy to be back in Bequia. The highlight of the trip was catching a nice blackfin tuna about five miles from the anchorage at Admiralty Bay. Three days to spare. I think we can make it to Union on time.

Viva La Difference! - Bless those Saintes

How far north would we travel this year? What did we miss last time around and where do we want to visit again? Antigua, St. Maarten - too far. Dominica - not far enough. We have a month before meeting Kelly and Glen in the Grenadines. So...ah, yes... Les Saines and Guadeloupe not too far, but far enough north to have a good sail and spend more time in a place we chartered and briefly visited last year. It's another French island, all of the amenities we long for are available - pain du chocolate, brie, wine, creme fraiche, and boat stuff galore - around every headland, in every anchorage.

The two day sail north (an overnight in northern Dominica) from Martinique was spectacular - averaging 6 knots, sailing the entire way. This is the "mind picture" of crusing the Caribbean. Finally, no drone of engine, just the gurgle of water under the bow, the swish of wind in the sails, and the quiet conversation of friends in the cockpit. This is the ultimate - sailing!

Les Saintes are a group of small islands about 20 miles south of Pointe a Pitre, Guadeloupe. According to Denny, one of the most significant sea battles of the French and Indian War took place here with the French losing therefore changing the flag of all the islands in the Caribbean except Martinique and Guadeloupe and some assorted smaller spots, thus allowing France to pay their war debt to England. At one time they were a group of small, island fishing villages but more recently tourism has infilatrated the largest of the islands. Ferries connect the mainland (Guadeloupe) on almost an hourly basis bringing day-trippers and "cruise-shippers" for quick visits. It is a busy place. We spent a brief five days here walking the villages and hillsides, snorkeling the crystal clear, warm water, and enjoying the ambiance. On the main island, Terre D'en Haut, motor scooters seem to be the main mode of transport - one can rent them for $20 per day. So ... picture this five helmeted adult couples, on five midget-sized scooters (Denny's knees barely below the handle bars and me hanging on to him for dear life), scurrying around, up and down the island roads trying to reach every beach, village, and visita in the six hours we have. We managed it, saw places we hadn't seen, swam at a beautifu l"Anse", and ate local "sweets" from a beachside vendor and sandwiches at the sidewalk cafe. Even though as one of our friends, a Harley ower back home, admitted aptly for all of us, "I was terrified driving the thing, all I could think of was the brakes" we talked about renting scooters on another island.

On a chart, Guadeloupe looks like a butterfly, wings spread, fluttering against a blue sky. A gentle sail north brought us to Pointe a Pitre, the main city of the island located at the spot where the wings join in the south. The River Salee' divides Basse Terre from Grande Terre, but bridges connect the two. We had good memories of our charter here in the mid-90s so looked forward to another quick five days in the area. Dinghied the five miles up the Salee River to check it out and decided we wouldn't take the big boat through - just for the experience. On one of our walks we happened upon the local market - there is nothing like it - the sounds, sights, smells. It's vendors kindly hawking fish - mahi, shark, wahoo, snapper - vegetables and fruits island style, spices, local beverages and colorful apparel - the chatter of patois (island talk) with each other but the switch to English or French for us - the smells of sidewalk grilling, sweet, fresh squeezed fruit juice and sweat of working bodies fill our senses. If only we could capture it all to share - photos and memories must suffice.

We feel too far away when we learn that Mom Lautner is to have emergency colon cancer surgery. Fortunately, the cell phone works well so we happily burn up some roaming mintues talking with everyone during this crisis. We learn later that she will do chemo this spring/summer but seems to be doing well. We're glad Denny will spend another hurricane season with her.

Time draws short, Audrey Paige is heading south with us. Memory and Conchd Out are heading north to Antigua for the annual races and hurricane season. Break and Run will have visits from their daughters but will haul in Trinidad in May. We will see them again on the way to Trinidad. Memory is possibly planning a visit to the Annapolis Boat Show so we hope to see them there. Conch Out - we're not sure. We've had wonderful times with them all and will miss them greatly. Eileen Quinn in her song "Friends" sings about "counting up what I've got to show for all these years afloat" ... relating having seashells, songs, souvenirs, photos, memories, etc ... "but mostly I've got friends." It's a lovely way to think about those that have come and gone. We will miss them.

So it is with promises of emails and skypeing we head south to the Grenadines to meet Kelly and Glen.