Grenadines Revisited #2
The end of March has us making our way to Union Island, the southern most Grenadine, to pick up our friends, Kelly and Glen. Since we began cruising they have spent each spring break with us wherever we are - Nassau, George Town, Virgin Islands and now the Grenadines. We chose this spot because it is one of our favorites; the islands accessible, the anchorages varied, the water clear and warm, snorkeling spectacular, the islanders welcoming and friendly - we knew they would enjoy it.
We met them as they arrived at the airport on Union. It was a five minute walk to Kyeta anchored in the main channel of Clifton just off the Bougainvillea Resort. We were to spend a few days in the southern islands and then make our way up the chain to Bequia for the Easter Regatta.
Most cruisers monitor the VHF local channel for news, hailing friends and services. When talking to some they switch to a working channel, but many charters don't have a clue about good radio etiquette. Two such boats had allowed the children on board free reign of the VHF. They entertained the anchorage off and on throughout the two days. One conversation regarded the "Happy Island" beach bar located on a reef in the middle of the harbor owned and operated by a "Rasta" man. The kids had gotten word that they "did drugs" on the island. After unsuccessfully trying to reach their parents to inform them, they relayed this warning on VHF. "Mom, Dad, this is a warning, don't go to that "Happy Place". They do drugs and smoke dope there. Warning, don't go there, stay away." This on the VHF for all to hear. Don't know if they parents got the warning but we did anchor near them at another spot and they were still "chatting" on the VHF.
We made our way a brief 12 miles north to Mayreau to anchor in the protection of the windward side of the island. Swells and wind were whipping up the surf and howling through the rigging but the surrounding reefs protected us and made it tenable. The small village in the middle of this island only hooked up electricity five years ago. One restaurant here makes the best homemade bread in the islands. Three loaves to go and we head back to the boat. And the rain came in sheets, Denny and Glen gathering as fast they could store it in anything they could find. They figure about 25 gallons worth - laundry and showers for the week.
Finally the weather cleared, so we headed about five miles to Tobago Cays to anchor with many charter boats - it is Easter week after all. This is the area that is protected by a great reef to the east so one anchors on the east side near some small islands. The view east is a clear shot of the Atlantic Ocean all the way to Africa; it actually is eerie thinking about it so I don't. We snorkeled the reefs, swam in clear, warm water and played Mexican Train Dominoes on the beach where the locals thought we were rather strange as we continued in the rain. We do love this spot. Time moving on so it north to Canouan. Trump has just built a resort/gulf course on this island. Very mixed feelings about it among the locals. We had enough time for a shore visit to the local elementary track meet and a swim from the boat in the anchorage before heading on to Bequia.
Our aim was to be in Bequia for the opening race of the Easter Regatta on Saturday morning. We pulled in for a quick day stop at Petit Nevis, the old whaling station for Bequia. The island is allowed two whales a year for community use. They harpoon them the old fashioned way in an 18 foot sailboat with six men on board. They were again successful this year just about a week before we arrived. It is an amazing feat regardless of how one feels about hunting whales. They whole community takes part in preparing the oil and meat and use it all.
Bequia's Easter Regatta was a whirlwind of activity, the harbor and town busier than at Christmas. Boats from all over the Caribbean sail or are towed to take part in the daily races around, in and through the anchorage. The locally made "double enters", their 18 to 27 feet length and colorful sails breeze through the anchorage between boats at anchor to cross the finish line near a town beach. It is a photographers dream. There are J24s, cruisers, racers, spinnakers, and dinghies races - the competition keen and intense. From shore young children race their homemade, coconut husk boats modeled after the larger double enders. The sponsors of the events are Heineken, Mount Gay and Pepsi so there is abundant liquid refreshment and partying to go around. It is a mingling of local folks, cruisers, and sailors all interested in one thing - sailing.
The weekend quickly came to an end as Kelly and Glen readied to head home. Bags packed - much lighter than when they arrived - last minute stops in town made, taxi to the airport reserved. We've had a wonderful time with them again this year and think they did too. We are always saddened when they leave. We were delighted to be able to share with them one of the special places of our world.
We've been here almost a month now. We'll stay for another few days when we head south to Grenada. Trinidad awaits, haul out for Kyeta is June 1st.
